This adventure started out with a peace march. The Global Walk for a Liveable World had already crossed America once – LA to New York in ’89 – while I was drifting through Santa Cruz, not quite sure where the thing would begin or end. I drove across the States instead of walking it, then flew back across the Atlantic. Found out about the second stage in the usual sideways way, a line at the bottom of one of my mum’s Ribbon leaflets.
In March ’91 I rang the organisers in the States to offer help with the UK leg, expecting to join a team. They wrote back to say that, actually, I was the team. Three weeks of phone calls, letters, searching for beds for 60–100 people, then scaling it all down to 20–30, and a week before arrival they announced only two or three walkers were coming. In the end four people appeared at the Battersea Peace Pagoda. Two weeks of trudging to Dover, then waving them off with a polite promise that I “might meet them in Berlin.” Truthfully, the earnest Californian-spiritual-self-help tone grated. They meant well. It just wasn’t my culture.
Hitching to Berlin. Set off for Berlin anyway, in the middle of… whatever month it was. Hitchhiking out of London was the usual purgatory. Bus → tube → Greenwich ferry back and forth trying to find a good spot. The gale stole my new Panama hat and sent me scrambling down the Thames foreshore to find it. Eventually got a lift out to the usual hopeless nowhere on the edge of town.
Midnight ferry to Ostend. Cheap day return, slept outside under the stars remembering the S/Y Nana and the Atlantic. Wandering off the boat, slinging my bag over my shoulder, I bumped into a Turkish-Cypriot driver who offered me a ride. Ended up drinking coffee in a friend’s flat while they talked Turkish and showed each other swords. Another lift dropped me at a service station 20 miles on.
A blur of rides later I was wandering lost in a village near Arnhem, slip road off the motorway, none on. Five miles through villages and pine forest to find the on-ramp. Lift to Hanover outskirts, dusk coming in, then, while trudging up the slip road, a ride all the way to Berlin. Stopped at the old border checkpoint at sunset. Dover to Berlin in 23 hours with a single hour’s sleep: exhausted but, strangely, the best way to do it.
Berlin: Unification or Just Glue? Dropped ten miles outside the city at midnight. S-Bahn staff surly, East Berliners insecure and unhelpful. Missed one train because nobody would point at the correct platform. Finally reached central East Berlin at 2am. Wandered empty streets, waited for tourist offices to open at eight. Everything misprinted, misdirected, kaput. Eventually found the address, a big communal house in the leafy suburbs, with activists, squatters, campaign groups, home turf of sorts. The Walk had left the day before. Slept. Woke late. Looked around Berlin. Got a Polish visa. Visited an old friend. Drifted.
Into Poland with the Walk. Caught up with one of the walkers, joined for a couple of days. Trudged into a village where we lounged on the grass eating bananas and ice cream while an old woman peered suspiciously through her curtains. A drunk man on a bicycle invited me fishing.
We camped two days beside a lake: sandy beach, forest, dragonflies, lilies, beavers. No tent, so I colonised a new picnic hut with a thatched roof half a mile around the lake. On the last night there was a party across the water with East Germans, Russian soldiers’ wives, and a group of Chernobyl kids. Vodka, folk songs, Beatles tunes until late.
Too tired and drunk to walk back to the hut I slept on the beach under my banner. Half-dreaming I felt a damp snout rooting at my neck. Sat up to see a small wild boar scamper away. Lay back down. Fifteen minutes later another attempted entry into my sleeping bag. Another boar.
Poland. Frankfurt-Oder → Poland Proper, Left the walk at Frankfurt-Oder, crossed the river, no border guards, no stamp. Changed a bit of money without knowing the rate. Hitchhiked through poorer, rougher towns. One couple gave me a lift, suspicious at first. When they realised I was from England their faces lit up: they’d never met anyone from “the West.”
In Wrocław, grey, rattling trams, I wandered two hours to a youth hostel that had closed years ago, then back again to the one I’d already passed. Looked for a tent; the shops offered nothing light, small or cheap. Took the train to Kraków instead.
Kraków, one of Europe’s great fairytale cities. Old town wrapped in green parkland, the filled-in moat. Enormous square crowned by the cathedral, a stone-roofed market hall, and a tower straight out of wizards and alchemists. Sat watching the Poles watch the Hare Krishnas dance.
Day trip hitching to Auschwitz with a young Jewish American, his first time hitching. Warm, generous people en route, which helped soften the horror of the camp: the endless wooden huts, the rails, the exhibitions. Romania’s display was the clearest; Hungary’s and Czech Republic’s had aged badly.
High Tatras. Bus to Zakopane, then on to Kuźnice. Walked two hours up into alpine meadows and pine paths. Stayed two nights in a mountain lodge built of giant boulders among firs. Walked barefoot to a lake at dusk, ice water numbing, snow on the shore. Two sunsets in one day after climbing a higher ridge. Back to tea, talk, and sleep, until a bear rummaging in the firewood woke everyone.
Walked five hours across ridges to Czechoslovakia. Pure mountain beauty: bilberries, moss-padded rock, icy streams, butterflies, deer crashing through undergrowth. Border guards grumpy about my missing stamp. Gave an old woman money and postcards to post, as there was no postbox at the crossing.
Slovakia: High and Low Tatras. Hitchhiked around: one lift from an obnoxious “entrepreneur” pushing overpriced rooms. Stayed two days in a cheap tourist motel, rode a forest tram to a surprisingly modern ski resort. Bought a tent for 2,100 crowns.
A Dutch couple took me to the ice caves, then to Dedinky, a lakeside village in the Low Tatras. Stayed four days. Lost half my clothes from a washing line and had my watch stolen at a birthday party. Thunderstorms, flooded tent, dubious rum, questionable hospitality.
Gypsies offered goulash and too much alcohol. Wandering deer-stalks with my camera. A glade so full of butterflies they landed on my jacket for the salt. Tea with syrup in the pub. Eventually hitched south and the last lift to the Hungarian border was, luckily, with Neo-Nazis who didn’t speak English.
Hungary. Walked across the border. Hitched halfway to Budapest in a Trabant with a new western Polo engine. The driver was proud until a giant French Citroën swept past; then he was crushed. The west in one gesture: effortless superiority, consumer glamour.
Budapest: big, beautiful, bullet-scarred. Wandered museums, fought off born-again Christians and McDonald’s kids. Lost my passport and found it again. Ate pastries and fruit for under a pound.
Caught a train to Szolnok. Wandered markets. Watched Russian helicopters drop paratroopers in dust clouds. Hitchhiked into a storm, huge drops, lightning, no lifts. Finally pitched my tent in a hollow outside Püspökladány, mosquitoes murderous, only sweets for dinner.
Next day: a lift with a Romanian to the border. Almost into Romania proper until visas and bribes made it impossible on my dwindling cash. Lunch of salted cheese and pickled vegetables. Foul orange drink. Backtrack.
Yugoslavia Approaches: Truckers, War Talk, Rain. English truckers took me under their wing. Rumours, hatred of Yugoslav drivers, endless cynical war talk. Rain hammered down. Hail. Under-bridge shelters. A hotel full of dancing wedding guests. A lonely prostitute named Gorge offering cigarettes and small kindnes. Long night. No lifts.
Eventually an English truck to Niš, avoiding the Croatian war zone. Dropped in a hotel in a storm that flooded the roads. More dancing, more waiting, more rain. Then stuck again, hitching useless.
Waited eight hours on a motorway. Walked off in frustration through dusty villages, sunflower fields, Soviet air bases, shepherds, rubbish dumps. Turned down buses. Took random side roads. A young man tried to help but we couldn’t communicate. Found a café owner who spoke French; they invited me to stay.
A Night in the Village. The café owner’s family fed me soup and bread and pálinka that could have cleaned engine parts. We talked in fragments of French and wild gestures. Their three kids stared at me like I was an escaped zoo animal. This was deep Yugoslavia, well off any tourist map, and I was the strange wanderer washed up by weather and bad timing.
They cleared a space for me to sleep on a narrow bed in the spare room. Old wallpaper peeling. A dog barking outside half the night. Rain on the tin roof. Perfect. Better than most hostels I’d paid for.
At dawn the café owner drove me back to the road, shook my hand with the elaborate warmth Balkan men have towards travellers, and wished me luck with the war. That was how people talked about Yugoslavia then, “the war” as if it were weather you might dodge if you timed the clouds.
Finally Moving Again. Two Orthodox priests in a green Lada dropped me near Skopje. They chain-smoked and offered philosophical commentary in a mix of Serbian, German, and what I think was half-remembered Latin. One of them insisted the devil lived in television aerials.
A trucker took me the rest of the way. The cab smelled of onions, diesel, and the sour damp of someone who slept in the cab too often. But he was kind, and he bought me a coffee from a kiosk that looked like it had been assembled from scrap during Tito’s time.
Skopje felt like a place trying to remember itself. Concrete modernist blocks, markets spilling fruit onto the pavement, the smell of grilled meat, the odd leftover fragment of Ottoman architecture poking up like a tooth. A city between eras.
I wandered the bazaar. Bought cherries so ripe they stained my fingers. Sat by the river watching young men throw themselves dramatically into the water to impress girls who pretended not to look. Same story everywhere in the world.
Spent the night on the floor of a dormitory where half the travellers were on their way to Istanbul and the other half had just escaped it.
South Again. Hitching out was slow. Eventually an Albanian family squeezed me into their car, seven people and me, limbs everywhere. They gave me boiled corn and water and argued loudly over whether I looked more like a German or a Spaniard.
Near the border, the father insisted on buying me lunch: greasy lamb tat I could not eat, tomatoes, bread like clouds. Hospitality thicker than the Balkan humidity. Crossed into Greece on foot. The border guard barely looked at my passport. I think he was half-asleep.
Northern Greece. Hitching here was easier. People were curious. Everyone wanted to talk politics, history, religion, football, and how Germany was ruining Europe. I learned quickly that agreeing with everyone was the safest option. Slept one night in an olive grove. Stars so sharp they felt like they could cut you. Woke to goats nosing the tent.
A trucker dropped me at the edge of Thessaloniki. Another city between worlds: Byzantine churches, grimy apartment blocks, and the sea shining like nothing was wrong anywhere.
End of the Road. I sat on the harbour wall watching ferries come and go. Backpack stained with rain, dust, and bad wine. Boots half-destroyed. No plan, no deadline, no proper money left. Just the quiet satisfaction of having walked, hitched, and lucked my way across a continent in a time when borders were dissolving and reforming beneath your feet.
You never really end these journeys. You just stop somewhere and breathe. The world keeps moving. You move with it.And eventually you turn the stories into compost for whatever comes next.
Towards Istanbul. From Thessaloniki, everything tilts gently downhill towards the East. The light changes. The air feels older. Even the road markings start to look like they were painted by someone who learned their craft from Byzantine mosaics.
I caught a lift with a fisherman in a battered blue pickup. Nets in the back, the faint smell of diesel and the sea following us inland. He didn’t say much, just offered me a cigarette every twenty minutes as if that were the correct dosage for crossing northern Greece. When we stopped at a roadside café he bought me a coffee strong enough to restart a small tractor.
He dropped me near Kavala, waved, and disappeared in a cloud of dust and fish-scented goodwill
Sleeping Rough, Thinking Too Much. I slept that night above a rocky beach, backpack for a pillow. The Aegean murmured below, waves rolling in like slow thoughts. I remember lying there thinking how strange it was, the world felt wide open then. Borders were just lines on paper. You could hitch from Scotland to the edge of Asia with nothing but a backpack, a half-broken map, and the soft confidence that strangers would mostly help you.
Trust-based travel. Pre-#dotcons, before fear culture colonised everything. Before algorithmic sorting. Before #deathcult narratives turned everyone into either a threat or a customer. It was all human-scale. Messy. Improvised. #KISS by default.
Crossing Into Turkey. The next morning a Greek–Turkish family picked me up. They were going home after visiting relatives, the boot stuffed with gifts and olives and god-knows-what from villages along the route. Three kids in the back seat, all elbows and arguments. They fed me pastries, corrected my pronunciation, and insisted on telling me the entire family history of Thrace. At the border the father argued with the guard about paperwork, the mother handed out more pastries, and the kids tried to climb over me to see the soldiers.
And then, just like that, I was in Turkey. The Road to Istanbul. The highways were louder now, more chaotic. Traffic like a living organism. Drivers inventing new lanes, new rules, new geometries of risk. I stood at the roadside for ten minutes before a lorry screeched to a halt and the driver leaned out, waving wildly, shouting “ISTANBUL! ISTANBUL!” as if he’d been waiting specifically for me.
We barrelled westward, the cab rattling like it was held together by optimism and borrowed bolts. The driver sang folk songs, swore at traffic, and at one point produced a melon from under the seat and insisted I eat half of it.
First Sight of the City – And then – there it was. A vast sprawl of light and concrete and history piled on top of history. Istanbul doesn’t appear gradually; it erupts. One moment you’re on a motorway, the next you’re in a civilisation that has swallowed entire empires and still hasn’t finished digesting them.
The skyline hit me first: minarets, cranes, towers, domes. Old and new arguing with each other. The Bosphorus shimmering like a border between worlds.
Finding a Corner to Exist In. I got dropped somewhere central-but-not-quite. Walked uphill, downhill, through markets selling spices and plastic toys and counterfeit jeans. Found a cheap hostel with doors that didn’t quite lock and beds that creaked ominously with every breath.
I dumped my pack, went outside, sat on a low wall, and watched the city breathe. The call to prayer drifted over rooftops. Boats moved like ghosts across the water. People hurried past carrying bags, bread, gossip, whole lives.
I felt like I’d reached the edge of something – the edge of Europe, the edge of my twenties, the edge of the analogue era, before everything got flattened into apps and fenced-in channels.
